Curving around the northern reaches of the Adriatic, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia has as much in common with its former Yugoslav neighbours as it does with mainstream Italy. An eclectic cuisine, an undiscovered property market and the elegant old city of Trieste make this a great place to explore for real estate in Italy.
Another of the regions of northern Italy that reflects its diverse roots in a rather clumsy name, Friuli-Venezia-Giulia is as far away from the influence of Rome as you can get. Tucked in the north-eastern corner, and rolling around the northern shores of the Adriatic to border Slovenia to the east, Friuli offers exciting options for property buyers.
But before you look at real estate for sale in Friuli, some history and background is in order. The region stands at a crossroads: where Mediterranean Italy meets central Europe, and where central Europe begins to give way to the Slavic East. Invasions thus came from every direction, the Romans, Huns, Cossacks, Goths, Lombards, Nazis, and Venice.
This was the scene of fierce fighting during the First World War, and Yugoslavia and the Allies were still fighting over Trieste until 1954: that explains the curious topography, whereby Trieste is joined to the rest of Italy via a narrow spit of coastline, though it lies surrounded by Slovenia (formerly Yugoslavia). It isn’t quite the old East Berlin, but some of the geo-political madness is familiar. The border wasn’t finally settled until 1975.
Of course those buying property in Trieste, Udine or the rest of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia need not worry about border disputes today. After the tumult of the end of Yugoslavia, Slovenia became independent in 1991 and this year joined the EU. Cross-border trade with Italy means a big economic fillip for the region. Friuli is no longer on the edge of things, and house prices along the Dalmatian Coast are already starting to rise.
The region is an enticing mixture of influences and cultures — whatever kind of property you’re looking to buy in Friuli you’re likely to find something to suit, and the region offers the option of getting in very much at the ground floor. Trieste was founded by the Habsburg dynasty, and is an Austro-Hungarian city rather than an Italian one — you’ll find art nouveau and neo-Classical gems here. Udine looks Venetian, and is frequently voted (by Italians) as the best place in Italy to live.
Grado, with its lagoons, is a mix of Venetian and Byzantine influences. There is the skiing centre of Carnia, and walking trips into the cave-pitted Carso country. And there are the beaches stretching along from Trieste itself — the so-called Triestine Riviera. There are stone chalets up in the hills, abandoned fishermen’s cottages on the coast.
Much of the region will make you forget you’re in Italy. You will hear the locals in Udine and Pordenone speaking the regional language, Friulian, a relative of Romansch and Ladin, and derived from Latin. Head down to the spit of land that links Trieste to Italy and you’ll predominantly hear Slovenian. And around the north of the region, where it meets Austria, the people speak German. Head into the Carso, the limestone uplands that rise from Monfalcone and you’ll see bleak little hamlets of heavy stone houses, villages with Slavic names, and experience the Bora wind whistling across the farmland. Sardinia it isn’t, but this is a rich, complex and fascinating part of Italy, and largely undiscovered so far by property investors.
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And prices for real estate in Friuli-Venezia Giulia are low compared to mainstream Italy. You could buy a modern four-bedroom apartment in Trieste for around €150,000, a large villa in 2000 square metres of land for around €300,000 in Pordenone, north of Venice. Look for abandoned or dilapidated properties for sale up in the Carso — you’ll find fine walking and scenery here, with numbered footpaths provided by the tourist authority, and you’re a short hop to Trieste or Venice in either direction.
The region is well served for air links. Anyone buying real estate in Friuli-Venezia Giulia will note the main airport north of Monfalcone, which has flights to London, Munich and Naples. There’s plenty to see all around the region, from the superb Basilica at Aquileia (one of early Christianity’s major monuments), the world’s largest accessible cave at the Grotta Gigante near Udine, and the sheer beauty of Udine itself, with its galleries, churches and beautiful old town.
You won’t be surprised to discover that the cuisine is eclectic too. Buy a home in Friuli-Venezia Giulia and you will become accustomed to cooking that draws from north, south, east and west. Check out the osmizze, informal restaurants where farmers sell their own produce and you can eat in. Wine, cheese, bread, salads and cured meats … this is a lovely way to picnic in Friuli. Otherwise, the menu boasts very good fish dishes (the region has a huge coastline), goulash, potato noodles, cheese dumplings, washed down by the acidic terrano red wine.
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